So, the after effects of last week's Ven Diagram of
"How not treat
a client" are finally put away and it's time to move on.
To OMG & Taylor, aka Lord
& Taylor.
This week the designtestants
will be creating a tenth look--a cocktail dress or evening dress--in honor of
the PR's tenth season, to go on sale at Lord & Taylor with nine looks by
nine other PR designers; everyone from Mondo to Chris March, to Bert to Giordana.
I know. Which one was Giordana? But
I digress.
So, since it's a rather simple
challenge, let's just rip.....
CHRISTOPHER
I'm beginning to loathe him.
Seriously. For a gay man his Cher impersonation was sorely lacking, so that's
number one. Number two is that ridiculous shredding, or feathering, or
whatever the @&$% you call it, detail that he wants to trademark as his signature
detail. Guess what Christopher? I wore shredded jeans in the 80s, so I already
trademarked it; and so did every other mo and diva and pseudo-punk back in the
day. You aren't new.
And, again, seriously? Another
outrageously large scarf? Stop. Just stop.
He notices right away that
there are only two gowns in the PR collection, so he’ll make a gown to
"stand out." He tells us it will be "the best gown ever"
and then tells us he "sounds like a tool."
Yes. I agree on one point. But then he tells us that this
time the shredding will be different. See, the first time he shredded an entire
gown, and the second time he shredded a skirt, but this time, oh this time,
he's shredding a top.
Oh.How.Daring.
His dress is boring. A fleshy
pink--he called it ballet pink--shredded top, over a simple flowing stretchy
silk long skirt. Yawn. And, I think, not very mass-market. Producing that
shredding detail is labor intensive, so how can L&T sell it for less than
$300. And why would they sell it when there are better dresses out there.
But Heidi likes it. It's
beautiful and elegant. Kors likes that it looks like separates, but also that
it looks like a t-shirt and a dress. That can't be good. Guest judge, Bonnie
Brooks, the president of the oft-mentioned Lord & Taylor, likes that it
looks light, but isn't. Huh? And Nina says that while it was a sophisticated
gown, it wouldn't work on many people.
Oh, and they all mentioned
that the shredding detail was getting old.
We get it. You shred. But then Christopher gets the
win and I'm looking at Carlos and thinking WTF just happened.
Seriously.
FABIO
He's growing on me, both as a designer and a person, though the neck tattoo kinda bothers me. Having been tattooed on
numerous occasions, I cannot imagine having someone tattoo my neck.
Ouch.
But his dress is simple and
chic and he's one of the few to actually think about how the dress can be
mass-produced and still have a decent profit margin because, you know, L&T
needs the dough.
I don't know if it's his
Freegan diet of lunching from garbage cans, but Fabio remains completely centered
and sane, working away with one goal in mind. For all his ink and fluffy hair
he isn't about drama and crazy--which is good since those girls are cornering
the market on loony.
He works, and makes a simple
dress, with an interesting halter back. Basic black, sure, and kinda boring, but
it looks like his design. Urban trashcan, and I mean that it a good way. Really, I do.
Heidi likes his dress, and
Kors, although not a fan of the asymmetrical hem thinks Fabio has done it well.
He is not a fan, however, of the exposed zipper. Bonnie thought a lot of women,
especially Lord & Taylor women, would wear a Fabio, while Nina called it a
perfect Little Black Dress with a twist; versatile enough for the office and
for a party.
His design should have beaten Christopher’s
but I imagine his win last week simply kept him Top Three.
ELENA
I'm beginning to think she's bipolar
because one week she's a raging longshoreman with a mouth like, well, mine, and
the next week she's weeping uncontrollably. Too bad the soaps are being cut
from daytime TVF because she could have had a second career playing crazy in
the afternoon.
She doesn’t like the challenge
because she doesn't do normal. She isn't commercial, she's avant-garde and
haute couture and you can't bring that down to mainstream. Well, tell that to Kors and YSL and
Donna Karan and all those other designers that do couture lines but also have commercial
clothing as well.
Adapt. Elena. Cry later, adapt
now.
She cuts muslin and tells us
she has no "f**king idea" what she's doing. She moves her fabric and
her scissors and her muslin all around the table; she reminds me of any one of
our cats playing with their food like something wonderful will happen if you
just kick it around. It doesn't.
And it doesn't get you on top,
and Elena never gets on top--though I'm thinking that she's a top in real life.
This isn't her thing; she doesn't do simple; she's avant-garde; the judges
don't get her.
Yada.Yada.Yada. She says
she doesn't dumb down her designs but her constant rants are certainly dumb.
Adapt.
Her dress is interesting. Baby
doll, as Christopher says, with a harness; Lolita dominatrix? That could work I
guess. I thought the skirt looked very stiff and bulky, even though I know
Elena likes stiff.
She got one of the top scores
and began to weep onstage because she thinks the judges don’t get her, and don’t
understand her and no one does what she does and....shaddup already.
Heidi says they've liked her
designs, but that she needs to think about each individual challenge and how to
work her aesthetic into it. Heidi then tells her the dress is marketable--and
I'm sure that hurt a lot to Elena--because of the girly, but hard, silhouette.
Nine loved the open back with the harness detail, but felt it was lost on the
front, while Kors said this was the first time Elena matched her aesthetic to
the client. Bonnie muttered something about it looking French with a fun edge,
but I think she was just planning on where to go for lunch.
Elena gets Top Three.
MELISSA
Such a contradiction. Pretty
blond girl who likes Goth and has tattoos. I mean, she comes off as Barbie and
then you see her in action and she's like Rocky Horror Barbie.
But she stays away from black,
mainly because all the other designers are going black because cocktail dresses
are always in black, except the one they just saw at L&T.
She picks a bronze brocade fabric
and it is going to be bad before it gets good.
She has all kinds of trouble
with the fabric, and when Tim tells her that it will show every seam and dart
and teardrop, Melissa thinks about using another fabric. But she doesn't want
to go Back To Black--Sidenote: I miss Amy Winehouse--and all the colored
fabrics are too soft for her to create that standup boat neck detail that will
set her dress apart.
So, she'll try it on her
model, fit it perfectly, and then change the fabric. only she doesn't change
the fabric. Instead, she takes the whole dress apart and cuts it again and sews
it again, and, well, this cannot be good.
At the last moment she is
running from workroom to sewing room trying to piece together what she thinks
will be a hot mess. But it isn't. It's very cool, I think, with the fabric
standing up in the front. it's very space-age, Judy Jetson at prom, but it's so
not Lord & Taylor. I cannot see Buffy McFinkelstein wearing this to a party
at the Goldfarbers penthouse.
Just saying.
But she's Top Four? Four? Yes,
the judges like four designers best and only a bottom two. Kors liked that she
chose a good fabric--the right fabric for the right dress--and loved the neckline.
He was not a fan of her asymmetry, and thought it needed a jingle bell at the
end. Nina loved the collar and the color, while Bonnie thought it ingenious, if
you just cut off that awful hem.
So Last Minute Melissa gets a
Last Minute Top Four.
Who knew!
DMITRY
First off. Love that accent. I
always love accent on men. Second off. love clothes he design. Sexy chic
clothings.
He is a little safe in his
designs. They are always sleek and form-fitting and sexy, with some kind of
sewing detail. But, they are sleek and sexy, and simple, and, well, doable for
under $300 at the L&T.
But, and I hate to but, Dmitry
seems to always do a simple chic dress with some kind of interesting sewing
detail on it. It's nice, but like Christopher's shreds and Ven's rose, we've seen
it before. I want Dmitry to bust out and go all ball gown-y and fabulous and patterns
and frilly.
I mean, he does sleek and sexy
really well, but can you imagine a sea of sleek and sexy with interesting seams
running down the runway in the tents?
Me neither.
He's safe.
SONJIA
After weeks of being on top,
or safe, or winning, last week she fell to the Bottom Three and this week
that's all she can think about, and, sadly, all she can talk about. I was
hoping Christopher would finally master his Cher impression and go all "Moonstruck" on Sonjia: Snap out of it!
She gets off the line that the
guys are more girly than the women, but then all the girls have meltdowns and
breakdowns while all the guys--and I include Alicia in this group--simply work
and get their jobs done. And then they stand at their
tables and watch Melissa scramble to make a dress in five minutes, and watch
Elena body-slam her mannequin to the ground, and see Sonjia sink to the floor
in tears. So, the girly guys get their work done, and the manly girls have
issues?
Yeah, I don't get it either. And I don’t get how she could
try the dress on her model on Day One, but then Day Two not be able to get the
girl in it. I mean she was tugging it down from the top and then tugging it up
from the bottom, and then she finally asked Elena to help while she sat quietly
in a corner--oh, no, she fell to the floor and just wept.
This is what I felt like doing
when I saw it. It looked like a dress from an old Carol Burnett Show sketch.
The frilly peplum waist--and again, how do I know from a peplum?--and the unfinished
hem, and the just plain nothingness to it. I mean, it wasn't bad, but it wasn't
a Sonjia.
It was, however, safe.
VEN
Yeah, it's over. One-note and
mean, and a little too baldingly pompous.
An origami rose.
Again. In a cocktail dress.
I’d like to see Ven be
Origami'd out. Fold him, press him, shape him into a tiny airplane, open a
window and let fly.
But Ven does get the Spit-Take
Award, for uttering this line whilst I was sipping tea--and therefore causing
me to spew it around the room:
"This challenge is not
just about me....I'm thinking about the customer."
Sage advice, Ven, but a week too late, no?
And then he Origami's some
more. As Gunnar rightly noted, "That's a lot of folding."
And as Sonjia noted, :::eye
roll:::
And as Christopher said,
"Holiday dress for a thirteen year old."
But as his usual
creation--other than last week’s d-I-saster--walks the runway, he says he’ll be
Top Three or safe.
Yeah, Top Six. Or actually
Seven. Out of nine.
That doesn't bode well.
ALICIA
I'm still a little stunned
that a Lesbian is on the PR designing clothes for women that will be sold at
Lord & Taylor and not at Lowes & Target.
But then she mentions Chanel
and I say, "Lesbian say what?"
And she wants to Chanel, er
channel, Chanel, in her dress by doing a dropped waist. She is sure the judges
will hate it, but she's a Lesbian and she doesn't care.
Or something.
And she creates a box pleat on
her dress. Well, two, actually, one at the crotch and one at the ass. And when
she shows them to Tim, on her mannequin, the interior of the pleat is blue. So,
um, the model will be spewing blue from her ladybits and her butt?
It seems like a gamble.
Tim thinks it looks like
armor, and Alicia will need that to fend off the Barbs of Kors. He said it
looked like a field hockey uniform, and all it needed was a Jason Voorhees
hockey mask and the model could hatchet her way through the judging panel. He
said if it was sporty, it wasn't sporty enough, and if it was dressy, it was
dressy enough. it just wasn't enough. Bonnie thought it looked more office than
cocktail though she's never been to my work where office is cocktail; Nina thought it too mature and matronly with the
Chanel drop-waist and the little collar. it was Thoroughly Modern Mille,
without the modern.
But Alicia was safe, which
means.....
GUNNAR
Try as I might, every time he
speaks it feels like someone is taking a rusted iron back scratcher and running
it around on the underside of my skull.
But Gunnar has this one in the
bag because he understands the L&T woman; he understands the generational
aspect of their client. He can take ideas from two former PR designers and use
them to create his own one-of-a-kind--though not so much--look.
He tells us that he loves his fabric
"so much it hurts" and he has no idea how prophetic that sounds. But
then his head continues to expand as he reminds us that his dress will tie up
the "loose ends" of the L&T PR collection.
Loose ends? Was that a dig at Christopher’s
shredded feathered dress? No, that came later with a not-so-subtle eye-roll.
Another eye-roll appeared when
Tim saw Gunnar trying to put lace and sequins all over his dress and turn it
into something Matador. Gunnar wonders why everything he does goes Matador and
I think it's less about fashion and more about a certain wet dream he had as a
young queerling.
As Dmitry rightly says,
"Most of Gunnar's dresses look purrrr-ritty bad."
And it wasn't bad, though I
thought it looked like a dress Laure Bennett had designed on a previous PR season.
And, apparently, I wasn’t the only one.
Nina called it nice, but
expected. She'd seen it before, and Kors said, You have seen it before. it's on sale at
Lord & Taylor now! He
also dubbed it the dreaded Mother of the Bride. Bonnie thought the lace was old
and stupid and stiff--well, she might have just said stiff, those other words
are mine. Heidi gave it a Pretty
good job.
Ouch.
So Gunnar was Auf'd and the
champagne flowed at Casa Bob y Carlos and....
Oh.No.You.Di'in't.
Gunnar gets saved too? Heidi
says all the designers met the challenge and yet just moments before they were
saying it dress was nothing special. WTF just happened. I uncorked the bubbly
for this?
MY TAKE
I was pissed. But then I saw
the previews for next week and it's a team challenge. Now, knowing that the challenges
are planned out before the season even starts shooting, and remembering that in
one week we lost the old lady and the Asian guy and someone else, well, they
needed to keep everyone last night to make three teams of three for next week.
So, this wasn't about all nine
designers doing good work, this was about keeping the teams even for next week.
I feel cheated.
I wanted Gunnar gone. Especially
after all his niceness on the runway whole his dress was skewered: Point taken.
Thanks for the feedback. I understand. oh really.
And then he walks backstage
and is so distraught he cannot even speak, except that he does speak and tells
us he has no idea why he was almost Auf'd.
Um, Gunnar? Your dress has
been done v=before and better.
That's why.
I think a muffin basket to the
old lady and the Asian guy is in order, because their scampering off the show
saved your ass.
But what did YOU think?